{"id":4136,"date":"2019-04-12T23:58:06","date_gmt":"2019-04-13T05:58:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/grunschev.com\/wordpress\/?p=4136"},"modified":"2019-04-12T23:58:14","modified_gmt":"2019-04-13T05:58:14","slug":"battery-tie-down","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/grunschev.com\/wordpress\/2019\/04\/battery-tie-down\/","title":{"rendered":"Battery Tie-down"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Twice now I’ve had the battery break loose at the track. It’s held down by two small clamps that clearly aren’t up to the job. I’ve searched high and low for a solution, but nothing looked good to me. I found a couple of commercial solutions, but they are for the small marine or race batteries. I don’t want to downsize the battery because I don’t want to be forced to keep the car on a battery tender all the time. I want to be free to take my road trips that span as much as two weeks. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

I found a couple of DIY solutions that looked promising. These were variations on using an aluminum bar. I found something at Home Depot that might serve: an aluminum bar 36″ long, 1 1\/2″ wide, and 1\/8″ thick. But I don’t have a vice, so it might be tricky to bend. A similar bar 1\/16″ thick might be better, but I didn’t see one.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>
\n

Instead, I picked up a tow strap. I looked for some material like this, but I couldn’t find anything that was just the strap material. Seems a bit of a waste to spend $20 for the little bit I need, but at least this way if I mess it up I have plenty of material to give it a second shot.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

First, I measured the battery to figure how much strap I’d need, and added a couple of inches for safety margin. I wasn’t sure how easy it would be to cut this strap, or how much it would want to unravel. So I started by taping both sides of my cuts. I mounted a fresh blade in my utility knife and started cutting. It was pretty easy, just five or six passes and I cut through.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>
\n

To keep the thing from unraveling, I hit the cut ends with a torch to melt the material, cauterizing it, if you will. Sorry for the poor picture. A few seconds on each cut and it was a nice solid end.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Next problem was how to put holes in for the bolts. I picked a drill bit just smaller than the bolt diameter and went for it, one person working the drill and another holding the strap in place. Then we cauterized the holes. They’re just about perfect; you actually have to thread the bolt through.
<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The photo above shows the finished strap. The bolts and washers shown are the original equipment. We found a couple of bolts a little longer and with bigger heads, and an assortment of larger washers so there’s much more surface area holding the strap.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
The finished product<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I’ve had it installed two ways. One with the “5000 LBS” showing and one all black. Obviously, the two bolts won’t hold 5,000 pounds, but I think the strap is a big improvement over the stock batter restraints.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Twice now I’ve had the battery break loose at the track. It’s held down by two small clamps that clearly aren’t up to the job. I’ve searched high and low for a solution, but nothing looked good to me. 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